20.03: The inimitable rules (in Dutch: onnavolgbaar)

HCMC is nicknamed ‘perl of Asia’. I looked from all perspectives imagineable but just couldn’t see why; it is just big and busy. One big plus; it is Vietnam and hence strewn with amazing food stalls and restaurants. Yummy! Could I have a better reason to set off straight after check-in?

My hostess, however, stopped me at the door to grind out the city rules. My mood dropped by the rule. 1: don’t go out alone at night – as a woman. 2: don’t take dark alleys. 3: don’t carry more cash than absolutely needed and no passports, credit cards, etc. These rules was pretty impossible since I travel solo, the hostel was located IN a dark alley and my room had neither safe nor locks for my valuables. If I wanted to be fed, I would have to take the rules with a grain of salt. So I did and guess what? I did not only survive but had some of the best food ever; my favorite scallops sprinkled with crushed nuts – an insanely good combination.

21.03: Agent Orange – a horror story

HCMC has various exhibitions to learn about the Vietnam war. Or better said, the American war as the Vietnamese call it. Short recap, the North invaded the South who asked the USA for help. The US sent in their troops to ‘fight communism’, yet many say that tin and tungsten [of pivotal importance for the US] was likely the more substantial reason. After some years the Vietnamese wanted to end the war and reunite but the US [government] did not step down. World wide protests (including from US citizens) were in vain. The US lost the war although this has never been so clearly written in the records.

The war caused severe casualties on both sides. The Vietcong used tactics that killed physically and especially psychologically; they created the illusion that they were invisible with their cunning tunnel systems and caused death and destruction without being present on the spot through the tons of strategically set up booby traps and iron pin traps. The US retaliated and used methods that were barbarian and frankly unacceptable as a world-power. The two Ultimate Lows in history were the civilian massacres (e.g. My Lai) and the use of Agent Orange.

Agent Orange is a deadly toxic herbicide that causes severe burns upon direct contact and cancers at later stage in life. It has a nasty sting since it induces genetic mutations which is why the incidence of extreme birth defects in the victims’ offspring and their next generations is unbelievable high. Cambodia has to bear the after effects of the US’s action for the next decades to come. The US government [and their suppliers] knew of these effects and nevertheless decided to apply it. This is for me a crystal clear case of a crime against mankind! They still haven’t acknowledged, apologised nor compensated the affected people. Can you imagine?

Chi, the lady in the picture top right, is very special to me. She was born in ’78, just like me. Our lives could not have been more different; Chi weighs 15 kg, is housebound and dependant, her goal in life is to add some value to her family. I am healthy, established and independent, I can go where I want, when and how. When I read Chi’s story I made a resolution to remember her each time when I feel bad or sad or whenever life doesn’t seem fair. I shall never complain again!

22-26.03: The super tourist suspended

I knew it would happen eventually… I am worn out. Tired of being the ‘super tourist’, continuously absorbing tons of information. I visited all ‘socially compulsory’ sites since I left Everest. I have been awe-ed and abhorred by the creations of mankind, and I thought a lot about our present. I initially felt lucky that we live in peace but then I realised that this is an illusion that stems from my upbringing in the West. In Dubai, I heard many heartbreaking stories of my Middle Eastern friends from Syria, Pakistan, Egypt, Africa, etc. Countries that are not at peace or have great difficulties to establish or maintain it. Let alone the threat of terrorism that both East and West exposed to. I feel that the task cut out for our generation – restoring the equilibrium- may be the most difficult task that mankind has yet faced.
I  think it is quite clear that I needed a break quite desperately. So no more night busses and haste but a direct flight from the South to Da Nang in the Middle of Vietnam. I spent a few days chilling, enjoying marvelous food, coffees and drinks and, surprise, running. My first run – 7 km- was easy.; two fingers up my nose – thank you Everest! I secretly planned to squeeze in a half marathon at some point on trip but please keep it to yourself, OK ?

The second run -11 km- was a tough one. I had targeted the statue of a lady Buddha (!!) at the end of the bay as turning point. Maximally 5-6 km I thought but it proved an itsy bitsy further (9 km 1 way). Oops! It was drizzling a little at the start but after a while it picked up and I got soaking wet. Luckily, a friendly lorry driver stopped to give me a rain cape. I couldn’t make out if he thought ‘poor girl’ or ‘crazy tourist’.

The beach changed over to a road that soon started to wind up as it wanted to punish me above and beyond the rain and the cold. I was happy to finally reach the statue! I only had a steep flight of stairs ahead, with water gushing down, but who cared, it was the last leg… if not the stairs ended in… a close gate. Sh#t!

This had to be my final wake-up call to abort the mission so I started to head down. Who wouldn’t have done the same? Yet, a mile later, I simply couldn’t reconcile, I just don’t give up. So I turned around again ran back and found the entrance just around the corner of the steps. What a beautiful place! Proud to have endured.

On my way down I stopped at a tiny restaurant where the staff (a family) could not speak any English and when hands and feet failed too, they simply invited me to join them for their family diner. Awesome!

I then tested the concept of hitchhiking, and I can tell you that Vietnamese don’t know this concept. I was lucky that a student stopped in sheer surprise when I raised my thumb…. No complaints from my end; he dropped me at my accommodation! In the evening, I feasted on lobster…because there is always a reason to ear lobster ?

Oh, I have to admit that I cheated during my suspension. I travelled to Hoi An, which was supposedly a must-see. I can say that it was a lovely town but it was also very touristy. I think my ‘super tourist syndrome’ kicked in again, so I returned to Da Nang after only a few hours…

25-26.03 Hanoi: another first: getting mugged
I guess I am human too –  I got mugged. It happened on my first day in Hanoi and I lost iPhone and UAE sim card. The IPhone was expensive but it was the cheap prepaid sim card that was a nightmare since my whatsapp was still running on that UAE number. My friend Alfred managed to have Du (my UAE phone company) issue a replacement sim card. I was deeply impressed and mega thankful.

27-30.03. Halong Bay – the booze tour

I booked a party hostel for my stay in Hanoi. This place transformed into a party place every evening. Great fun! I found Hanoi -despite the theft- the best place of Vietnam.

I booked a tour to Dalong beach, which was called ‘Castaways’. They promised it was notorious and I can concur that it was indeed. I did other things then partying; I climbed my first rocks and I cayaked.  The rest of the group, however, had one objective only; to party as hard as possible. It took me a little bit of time to switch gear but honestly I must admit that I had a great time. It was a welcome change after all hiking and sightseeing. Another plus… I am now also up-to-date with most new drinking games, so feel free to ask me for any  version of beer pong, ‘who’s got the ball’, shotgun, basket pong, etc

I was pretty proud that I succeeded in my first rock climb (30 m). It was terrifying yet awesome. I was pretty clueless on what to do, so I climbed with anything available, hands, feet, arms, knees, elbows, etc. My entire body was black-and-blue and cut, oops 🙂